Panthenol
Panthenol, also called provitamin B5, is a humectant and barrier ingredient that skin converts into pantothenic acid.
One of the better-evidenced barrier ingredients in topical use.
On the label: Panthenol. Also known as Provitamin B5, D-Panthenol, Dexpanthenol, Vitamin B5.
What it does for you
Helps skin hold water and feel less reactive. It is one of the reasons a high-active formula can still feel calm rather than tight.
Why we use it
A single daily active only works if skin tolerates it every day. Panthenol is here to protect tolerance, not to add another claim.
Mechanism
Panthenol is converted in skin to pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in lipid synthesis in the skin barrier. It also acts directly as a humectant, drawing and holding water in the upper layers.
What the studies say
Only corneometry reached statistical significance, showing decreased values after the SLS challenge at the placebo sites (P less than 0.05). Intraindividual comparison favoured the dexpanthenol site in 11 cases and the placebo site in 1. Of 6 volunteers who developed irritant contact dermatitis, symptoms were more severe at the placebo site in 5. A modest result on a single objective endpoint rather than a broad efficacy finding.
- Human in vivo
- n = 25 healthy volunteers aged 18 to 45 enrolled, 21 completed
- 26 days
Randomized, prospective, double-blind, placebo-controlled; 5% dexpanthenol balm versus placebo twice daily to the inner forearms, with 2% sodium lauryl sulfate applied twice daily on days 15 to 22 as an irritation challenge
Efficacy of dexpanthenol in skin protection against irritation: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study Biro K, Thaci D, Ochsendorf FR, Kaufmann R, Boehncke WH. Contact Dermatitis, 2003. DOI 10.1111/j.0105-1873.2003.00184.x
Conducted at academic dermatology departments. Tested a commercial 5% dexpanthenol product. The authors themselves note that few controlled trials of dexpanthenol exist.
Formulations containing 7 to 11 wt% panthenol increased skin hydration and decreased transepidermal water loss, and shifted skin pH toward neutral. Oil-in-water vehicles performed better for hydration. Note the concentrations tested are far above typical cosmetic use levels, and the 48 hour window speaks to immediate hydration rather than sustained barrier change.
- Human in vivo
- n = 40 women
- 48 hours
Non-invasive instrumental measurement of oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions containing 5 to 13 wt% panthenol, compared with the same formulations containing none
In vivo efficacy and properties of semisolid formulations containing panthenol Pavlackova J, Egner P, Sedlacek T, Mokrejs P, Sedlarikova J, Polaskova J. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019. DOI 10.1111/jocd.12527
Academic study. Short observation window and high test concentrations both limit how far this transfers to a finished formula.
Reviews the topical dexpanthenol literature and concludes that studies support moisturizing and skin barrier enhancing effects, prevention of irritation, stimulation of regeneration and promotion of wound healing. States plainly that the exact mechanisms of action have not been fully elucidated despite decades of use.
- Review
Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article Proksch E, de Bony R, Trapp S, Boudon S. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2017. DOI 10.1080/09546634.2017.1325310
Narrative review, not a systematic one, written to mark the 70th anniversary of a commercial dexpanthenol ointment. Check author affiliations before treating it as independent.